Mexican Standout

It’s the big country with the big population, big personality and big list of things to see and do.

My recollections of anything Mexican were few and far between; not exactly an ideal start to our month-long holiday in Mexico.

I still remember Conchita from my childhood, the 11-year-old daughter of the Mexican Ambassador to the Philippines who my father had invited to our home for a swim with me as part of his framework for diplomatic relations.

There was also Speedy Gonzales, that Warner Brothers Loony Tunes critter with the oversized yellow sombrero, white shirt, trousers and red kerchief, who rattled on in a stereotypical Mexican accent. I recall learning about Frida Kahlo and the ancient ruins of Teotihuacan in my high school art classes. And then, there was Taco Belle. With those five childhood memories firmly entrenched in my memory bank, I was no closer to forming any sort of cultural connection with Mexico.

Reading the bad press from the drug wars of late, I had to ask myself if we were mad in considering Mexico for a holiday. Shouldn’t we have picked a safer, more idyllic destination, like maybe Tuscany or the South of France? With paranoia starting to set in as a result of continuous warnings from friends and family, I forged ahead regardless, ensuring that our itinerary did not go anywhere near the troubled cities close to the US border; areas such as Chihuahua, Sinaloa, northern Baja California, Ciudad Juarez, Nogales and Tijuana.

Comfortable with the itinerary I had put together from a security and cultural point of view, I approached my visit to this big country with an openness of mind and spirit.

Did I say big? Big doesn’t even begin to cut it with Mexico. Try ‘enormous’. Traversing from one city to the next via luxury bus, seemingly miniscule distances on a map can easily take half a day. Covering almost two million square kilometres, it is the fifth largest country in the Americas and the 14th largest independent nation in the world. But never was this point driven home more forcefully than when I had mistakenly purchased our bus tickets from Merida to Ciudad del Carmen, instead of to Playa del Carmen. Almost identical in name, the difference, as we found out the hard way, was 550 kilometres and six hours.

With a big country comes a ‘big people’. From the taxi drivers to the waiters, barbers to the street vendors, we found the Mexicans to be a polite, warm, loud and gregarious people, with a generosity of spirit, readiness to laugh, willingness to help, and a pride in their country and heritage that was admirable. And believe me, there are lots of them. Topping 111,211,789 in 2009, according to Wikipedia, Mexico ranks 11th in the world in terms of population density. That’s a force to be reckoned with.

So what else is Mexico about?

Mexico is about ancient ruins. The country is dotted with a plethora of mysterious and majestic pyramids that took our breath away. From the towering heights of Teotihuacan to the sheer mass of Cholula, the grandeur of Chichen Itza, Uxmal, Palenque and many more, the cultures in Pre-Columbian Mesoamerica matured in to incredibly advanced civilisations way before the first contact with the Spaniards in 1521.

Mexico boasts a rich and beautiful colonial heritage, a by-product of the Spanish 300-year rule, its influence apparent in the architecture of its charming colonial towns. Guanajuato (gwah-nah-HWAH-toh) is a colonial gem and world heritage site that sits in a valley around 220 miles northwest of Mexico City. The old walled city of Campeche (Kam-Peh-Che) has been one of Mexico's best kept colonial secrets for many years, with its narrow streets, pastel-coloured houses and old colonial feel. The city of Oaxaca (wa-HAH-ka) also offers an engaging historical colonial centre, complete with cobblestoned streets, striking architecture, quiet plazas, and a fine central square filled with a cacophony of sights and sounds. And nowhere in Mexico is Spain's influence more prominent than in Puebla, with its dome-shaped roofs of churches and buildings. Cuernavaca, Merida, San Miguel de Allende, Morelos, so much to see and so little time!

Mexico is for handicraft and art lovers. The merge of indigenous with colonial and traditional with contemporary produces a uniqueness in design, handicraft, architecture, dance, music and dress that is shamelessly colourful, vibrant, loud and unmistakably Mexican. The old sits comfortably with the new; this is the country that gave birth to the complex indigenous designs of the huipil and rebozos, still worn by the women of Chiapas, as well as avant-garde revolutionary artists like Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. It is also about culinary delights. From chocolate to chilli, sweet to spicy, the traditional specialties will excite even the dullest of palates.

Mexico is equally about the surf, beaches, and nature. In fact, being such a large country and straddling both temperate and tropical zones, it is considered to be one of the richest in the world in terms of flora and fauna, and has plenty to offer in terms of physical adventure.
If I had to sum up Mexico in a word, it would be ‘surprise’, and it was just that from one day to the next. Whether discovering its rich ancient history, savouring its traditional cuisine, coveting its exquisite handicrafts, or marvelling at its natural beauty, Mexico was like unwrapping a gift everyday, and we loved every moment of it. Here’s hoping that this will be the first step into making Mexico your reality too.

Victoria Ugarte
www.postcardsfrommillie.com